8 Things to Know Before Booking a Trip to Havasu Falls
Considering a trip to Havasu Falls? It can be an amazing trip I think everyone would enjoy visiting at least once. While it is a 10 mile hike in the desert it is worth the effort. Not only are there 5 large waterfalls to visit, but the canyons, Havasu creek, the locals, reservation dogs, and more make it a memorable experience. The waterfalls are a part of the Havasupai reservation and Havasupai actually translates roughly to “The people of the blue-green waters.” The striking color of the water against the red rock of Arizona is part of what the area is so famous for.
Deciding if this is the trip for you
You’ve seen all the lovely waterfall photos and are thinking you’d love to see it in person! These falls are found in the Grand Canyon on the Havasupai Reservation. Visiting requires hiking into the canyon with reservations made in advance. Getting from the parking area to the campground involves backpacking or hiking down while a mule (you reserved ahead of time) carries your things. If you choose to you may be able to book a tour with some companies or get a helicopter ride (with Airwest Helicopters) on some days instead. Whatever your method of transportation for a trip to Havasu Falls there is still a good amount of hiking to be done while visiting.
A trip to Havasu Falls begins with hiking into the village (with or without your gear on your back) for 8 miles from where you park your car on top of the canyon to the Tourism Office. It is then another 2 mile hike from there to Havasu Falls and the campground. If you take the helicopter it lands at the village; if you have mules bring your gear it will be dropped off at the campground entrance.
Havasu creek is the name of the water that creates these 5 major waterfalls and runs into the Colorado River further down. The campground runs along Havasu creek and hanging out at the campsites is just as beautiful as the waterfalls. Hiking to the each waterfall (which I believe is a must!) can add many miles walked to a day. On our trip to Havasu Falls we easily did 12-18 miles each day. From the campground it is a 1 mile hike to Mooney Falls and a 3 mile hike to Beaver Falls, Fifty Foot Falls and New Navajo Falls are along the hike from Havasu Falls to the Village.
Booking campsites opens February 1!
So, you’ve decided that a trip to Havasu falls backpacking through the desert to see these waterfalls is worth it, and I believe it is! Then it’s time to look into booking a campsite. The Havasupai Tribe Tourism Office books visitors in lodging or for camping from February 1st through November 30th. A reservation is required to visit, no day hiking is allowed!
Lodging begins booking June 1 the year before your reservation, while the campground begins booking February 1 at 8:00 am the year of and popular dates sell out quickly. In the past you had to call to get reservations and hope to get through (it took us 40-60 hours constantly calling to make reservations!). Today there is a website for booking that you need to have an account on, it receives high volume and can be difficult to get through. They have asked not to receive calls to keep phone lines open for emergencies so I believe you have to use the website and email support@havasupaireservations.com with questions to book your trip to Havasu Falls.
As of October 2018 a trip to Havasu Falls can only be exactly a 4 days / 3 night reservation, you can extend it only if you make multiple back to back reservations (if the space is available) and it can’t be shortened. Current costs per person are: 1 night = $140.56, 2 nights = $171.12, 3 nights = $201.67. Weekends, Holidays, and Spring Break dates have an additional $18.34 per night charge. These prices have increased since my 2017 visit. The reservation cannot be transferred or refunded once booked so be sure the name listed on the booking will make it on the trip.
Deciding how long to visit
Depending on what you want to be able to do when you visit will determine how long you might like to staywhile on your trip to Havasu Falls. Our group visited for 4 days and 3 nights and I wish I stayed longer! Here’s an idea of what you can do with 4 days.
- DAY 1: Hike into Havasupai Village, check in, hike to the campground and set up, visit Havasu Falls
- DAY 2: Hike to Mooney Falls and Beaver Falls
- DAY 3: Visit the village, Havasu Falls, Fifty Foot Falls, and New Navajo Falls
- DAY 4: Hike out of the canyon (or spend some time and hike out late but then you may have a long drive after!)
This is based on the itinerary I had when on a trip to Havasu Falls and wanting to see all the waterfalls. You can have a more relaxing stay near the campground or there are many other opportunities to hike as well, some of the more popular being hiking the Mesa Wall to Beaver Falls and hiking to the Colorado River (16 miles).
Deciding when to visit
When you can visit on a trip to Havasu Falls will depend on availability and, of course, your schedule. You’ll want to take into consideration the potential weather as well. There are no refunds because of weather and during monsoon season there is intense rain. Flooding during the rain can wash out the campground area and turn the water a muddy color. If conditions are not safe you will not be permitted to camp during your reserved dates.
- Monsoon (rainy) season in Arizona begin June 15, peak is from mid-July to mid-August, and ends on September 30.
- Spring temperatures rise from a high of 78–95 nearing summer, lows rise from 54–70
- Summer temperatures average a high of 100–105, lows from 75–80
- In the fall temperatures drop from a high of 90–70 nearing winter, lows fall from 70–50
What you’ll need to pack
There are a number of things that are important to bring on a trip to Havasu Falls and you could easily pack more than you need. At the end of the day the most comforting thing was knowing we were prepared but we paid for it in the weight of our bags. Remember to keep your trail snacks accessible and a map handy for the hike in (although I never actually needed the map). You’ll need less clothing than you think; you can wash clothing with a little bit of soap and water in a dry bag, hanging it to dry on some string. For food you will want to be sure to portion it all out for each meal and snack, you want to have enough but not weigh yourself down. It is nice to treat yourself to a favorite candy or brownie, and the calories will help with all the exercise you’re getting. Carrying heavy weight items like fresh fruit and veggies is not ideal so stick to foods that don’t take up so much space. (There are stores and food available in the village and sometimes at the campground entrance at high prices if you prefer)
For a short trip to Havasu Falls you don’t need much for toiletries and packing smaller sizes is best (there are no showers). Once you reach the campground you may want to tie up your food to keep rodents from getting to it so odor proof bags, a Ursack, or a rat bag can be useful along with some rope. To protect electronics it’s nice to have a dry bag when near the water. A light weight day pack can be useful to carry your things in when you hike from the campground and leave your backpacking bag behind. A note for those who don’t always read directions (like me, woops); microfiber quick dry towels often need to be washed before use or they can bleed ink on your clothing.
As a photographer I had extra weight from my lenses, camera, tripod, and even some fun dresses to take photos with but I suggest packing only what you truly need while on a trip to Havasu Falls for the lightest weight possible.
- Map, cash, ID
- Backpacking bag
- 3L water bladder
- Light weight backpacking tent (can share 2 person tent)
- Sleeping bag and pad, pillow or pillow case (can stuff clothing into)
- Backpacking stove, fuel, lighter, spork, collapsible measuring cup, and pot
- MRE’s or other instant cook foods, trail mix, beef jerky, crackers & peanut butter, dried fruit, protein bars, light candy treats (that don’t melt)
- Water filtration like a sawyer mini or tablets
- Light weight day pack for hiking after you reach camp
- First aid kit – keep it to the essentials like bandaids, wrap, disinfectant, pain killers, any prescriptions
- Small dry shampoo, deodorant, comb, soap, sun screen, wet wipes, bug spray if you’d like (environemntally friendly brands and rinse far from the water to not create algae blooms)
- Quick dry clothing, hiking boots, water shoes, bathing suit and small towel, hat, sunglasses
- Cell phone, extra battery charges, camera, large memory card
- Head light, other small lights
- Dry bag, poncho, puffer jacket
- Rope, multi-tool, duct tape, compass, whistle (not always used but can be handy)
- Deck of cards, frisbee (for fun)
- Optional: odor proof bags, Ursack, or rat bags
No drone use is permitted, no alcohol allowed.
Getting to the trailhead/parking area
Depending on where you are coming from you will most likely fly into Phoenix or Las Vegas for your trip to Havasu Falls. If you’re lucky maybe you can get a flight into the smaller Flagstaff airport. From there you will have to drive. If you put Havasupai Trailhead into your GPS (on google maps) it will get you to the parking area. It is at the end of Indian Road 18 off Route 66. One option during your trip is to also visit the Grand Canyon, it is a bit over a 3.5 hour drive from one to the other (the southern rim, not northern). Don’t forget to fill your gas tanks! There is no gas on Indian Road 18, if you do forget, you may be able to find someone in the parking lot selling it occasionally (we had a friend have to do this).
To get the most of your trip to Havasu Falls it is best to spend the night before your reservation begins sleeping in your car in the parking area. It can be cold at night, so bundle up. Getting up early the next morning to hike in first thing will give you the most time for your visit and avoid some of the hottest sun. Once you get to the village you need to check in at the tourism office it’s hours are not listed online, however, they are not open at all times and do take breaks so you’ll have to be sure to catch them.
Planning hike in and out
Wake up in the parking area to begin your trip to Havasu Falls from your car early in the morning, 5:00–6:00 am I’d suggest, or earlier if its summer, and get ready to begin your hike. It is cooler in the morning which is why it’s best to start dressed in layers. Take your last chance to use a bathroom by the trailhead. Then the hike begins with about 1 mile of switchbacks heading into the canyon floor where it seems to level out for most of the next 7 miles. Following this trail back out when you leave you realize it’s really all slightly uphill on the way back, even the areas you may have thought were flat. It’s a long hike and everyone should take care to take the breaks they need and drink plenty of water. You’ll pass other hikers and mule trains with luggage going in and out along the way.
When you first see Havasu creek and the famous blue-green water you’ll know you’re getting close to the village. In the village there are several places to stop and rest that sell frozen Gatorades, food, and other supplies. Be sure to pick up anything you’re missing while you are here. There are small signs to guide you to the tourism office where you need to check in. Afterwards you can continue on your trip to Havasu Falls by following the trail down past the first two waterfalls New Navajo Falls and Fifty Foot Falls. You can decide to stop now and visit or continue on past Havasu Falls to the campground entrance and find your spot. I would recommend not taking the first campsite you see but wandering around (maybe without your bag ;)) to find one you love.
While you are there
You made it! Now you have a limited amount of time and so much to see. Decide what kind of experience you want and have fun. For my friends and I we wanted to explore and see all 5 major waterfalls, we saw other families hang out at the two major waterfalls closest to the camp all day, and some other groups pick the less popular waterfalls, New Navajo Falls and Fifty Foot Falls, to spend an entire day at. Whatever your preference it will be an amazing trip to Havasu Falls.
If you plan on swimming, I have to say the water was colder than I expected, although we did visit in mid-May. If you get sick of the food you brought the locals sell some freshly made food at the campground entrance until theres none left or you can find more food for purchase in the village 2 miles from the campground. The camp dogs are most often in the village, at Havasu falls, and in the campground, with a little encouragement the dogs adopt campers to stay and visit with during their trip to Havasu Falls.
The campgrounds is 1 mile long with Havasu Falls at one end and Mooney Falls at the other down a bunch of sketchy stairs, metal chains, and ladders. The trails for Beaver Falls begin from Mooney and the hike is 3 miles one way. Rangers will turn you back after a certain time to make sure everyone is back to the campground before dark. New Navajo Falls and Fifty Foot Falls are along the trail between Havasu Falls and the village.
The hike from Mooney to Beaver was especially unique. Although the waterfalls are the big draw for a trip to Havasu Falls the hikes themselves are otherworldly. You cross the creek 3 times on the way to Beaver Falls, you end up above it at times, cross through a sudden field of green in the red rock canyon, and climb short ladders. There are tons of places to grab a picnic table and just relax. I wish I had more time to spend on this trail and at Beaver Falls. At the falls you could walk around and swim in all the tiers of the falls.
These are the main trails and most popular on a trip to Havasu Falls, there are several others including hiking on the Mesa Wall to Beaver Falls where you’ll have to be careful getting off the trail as it requires you climb down a rope. You can’t jump into the water from the rope, it isn’t deep enough! (A ranger shared a story about someone who did this before and had to wait overnight in a storm before it was safe for a helicopter to fly into the canyon to get them to a hospital.) The Arizona river is also a 16 mile hike if you’re into some serious hiking.
Havasu offers so much and is such a unique place, please carry in carry out <3 and keep it beautiful.
Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe Bend, and Bryce Canyon in a Day
On Saturday we woke up in Zion National Park and packed up our campsite to head to Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe Bend, and Bryce Canyon National Park. We had a tight schedule to keep and lots of driving to do. Antelope Canyon is back in Arizona and there is a time change so we planned accordingly and get to leave a little later.
Antelope Canyon
To visit Antelope Canyon you have to schedule a tour ahead of time, especially if you want one of the prime times. Antelope Canyon is made up of two parts upper Antelope Canyon and lower. Upper is where you may get to see the famous light beams. Most website will forewarn you it is a very popular tourist destination, crowded, and you will be moved through fairly quickly by your guides. We used Adventurous Antelope Canyon tours, getting a good guide has less to do with the company per say than it does with luck and we got lucky. Our guide was not there to rush us, even when pushed to by others, they all help set camera settings but he also showed us his favorite angles for photos and took our pictures for us. Lower Antelope Canyon is said to be less crowded, as are many of the other slot canyons in the area, if that is the experience you are look for go to a different canyon. That said Antelope Canyon is as beautiful as the famous photos we’ve all seen.
A side note, I did NOT do one of the photography tours. They do not allow guests who do not have professional cameras and I was visiting with my fiance. Those on the photography tour were given more time and the area was cleared to help them get the shots but once they set up the guides counted down from 30 I believe or lower and they only had those seconds to shoot before moving on.
We did briefly catch a light beam on the way out. The guides take you through slowly on the way through and let you take photos, on the way out you are supposed to experience the canyon without taking photos, which also helps move you out of the way of others. These are the only photos I got where you can kid of see the light beam, the photographers were stopped in this area and shooting.
Horseshoe Bend
Horseshoe Bend and Lake Powell are very close to Antelope Canyon so we did the short hike to Horseshoe Bend afterwards before deciding to drive to Bryce Canyon (back in Utah and with a time change again).
Horseshoe Bend is a very crowded location and out in the hot sun, they warn you to bring water and you should! It is such a strange formation and way for the water to have moved we took some time exploring here but not too long since we had more driving and a time change ahead of us.
Along the way we saw a small dinosaur museum off the highway and decided to stop. It was full of an assortment of dinosaur foot prints from Utah, some fossils, native artifacts, and a rock collection.
We made it to Bryce Canyon around 4:30 pm and checked out Sunrise point and then Sunset point. We tried the short hike Navajo loop there only to find half of it was closed from rock fall and have to turn around.
These strange sandstone formations are called the hoodoos, they were created by and are changed each year from the spires freezing and then thawing. Melting snow gets into the cracks in the spires and freezes at night, when water freezes it expands which enlarges then cracks making them wider.
After this we headed back towards California with San Diego as our next destination. In California we did much more relaxing and visiting friends but I will have a few more photos!
Just to note, I would never recommend spending so little time at all these locations and so much time traveling in one day but sometimes a road trip calls for it! I can’t wait to get back and get to spend more time in this part of the country.
A Day in Zion National Park hiking Angels Fall Landing
For our second day in Zion National Park we tried to wake up early and start Angels Fall Landing in the morning, but it was a cold morning and we slept in a bit. Heading out we followed a path with beautiful views to the second bus stop on the shuttle. We picked up the shuttle and headed back to the fourth stop from the previous day. We had turned left to go toward Emerald Pools and today we were turning right to head towards Angels Fall landing. Angels Fall Landing is about a 5 mile hike round trip, it is not a loop, you hike up and back down the same trail.
We got stopped early in our hike by a ranger who was mapping out the area and waited a few minutes to continue up.
For those of you who haven’t heard of Angel’s Fall Landing its a scary hike, you need to have good balance and not be too afraid of heights (you’ll see why below). At least hundreds of people a day if not more hike the trail. The beginning is just switch backs up the mountain and fairly easy. It is paved though so it’s harder on your calves!
Eventually you hit this area closer to the end of the “easy” part with shorter switchbacks that are a bit steeper and the sandstone has been made to look like bricks. Once you reach the top of this area you are at the beginning of the real nerve wracking and challenging part of this hike.
There are signs along the way warning you not to do this trail if your balance is off, you are scared of heights, have the right shoes, and so on. They also let you know that 7 people have died in the last 9 years on this trail, 15 since the trail opened. Until this year (2017) it had been 5 years since a death. The trail has had a reputation as one of the deadliest in the world but each year people flock to the trail. They do really try warn you off with the signs and warnings on the bus rides. The trail is on sandstone with cliffs on one or both sides of you the rest of the way up. There are people passing you in both directions and you often have to pause to let others pass, even while holding on to chains or in the way of others. Over the years they’ve added more chains and carved the stone more to help with footing.
The “hump” looking edge of that mountain is part of the trail (after we’d already done some of the trail). From what I had seen before taking this trail I was pleasantly surprised that there was often only a cliff on one side of you, I had expect cliffs on both sides of you the entire way. I’ll admit I have a mild fear of heights so when planning out this hike I knew I might turn around at some point.
Towards the peak of the trail where you would turn around and head back there are cliffs on both sides of you. Right before this point I stopped to rest under a random tree here and psych myself up for doing the end of the trail. Being so close and seeing the trail was a bit wider than I’d expected I pushed myself through to the end.
It’s at this point that my boyfriend proposed. He had clearly been trying to decide where to propose all day, so thinking this was a big accomplishment and a beautiful location he got down on one knee and asked me to marry him.
This hike is both not as hard as you imagine and just as hard. If you plan on doing it have the right gear, a healthy dose of fear but not too much, and good balance. The hardest part is often just the sheer number of people on the trail, be courteous and I suggest start the trail early before it gets too hot!
A Late Afternoon in Zion National Park
When heading to Zion National Park we didn’t have camping reservations but we were lucky enough to have friends also going. They left Vegas before us and waited in line forever to get a campsite which we were lucky to join. The National Park campgrounds fill up fast!
We left Vegas a bit later in the day and got to Zion in time to visit the Visitor’s Center, set up camp, and do one of the shorter trails.
We took the shuttle down to the fourth stop where the trail to Emerald Pools began, you can also get off at the 3rd stop but that trail to lower Emerald Pools was closed due to rock fall. This version of the trail is about 3 miles if you do lower, middle, and upper Emerald Pools.
On our way up the trail we had beautiful views of the Virgin River and the canyon. The Virgin river is very small but it has carved it’s way through the entire canyon and still removes tons of debris each year. We ran into our friends Rachel and Chad who we were camping with on their way down from the trail and said hello but continued on.
A bit further along we ran into a woman who quickly shushed us and directed us to look up off the trail a bit. There we could see a mule deer. Mule deer are very common at Zion and not too afraid of humans. On the bus we had seen them next to the edge of the road as well. Continuing on the trail we visited lowers pools, then middle, then upper and hiked back down the same trail.
Zion has a highway running through it and it’s gates are open all night because of this. After our hike we decided to check out the small town we had passed on the way in. Outside the park you will find a bunch of cute stores for souvenirs, a grocery store for food to cook over the fire, restaurants, and hotels. It’s a really cute area and made it even more fun to stay here since there was a variety of things to do at night.
Backpacking out of Havasupai
Saying goodbye is never easy. We found the experience no different when leaving the campground at Havasupai. We rose early to pack our things and begin backpacking out of the canyon before temperatures rose. I found Kumkuat (the honorary name we had given one of the dogs who live here) sleeping outside our tent where he had apparently been all night. Not enjoying our packing he kept trying to distract me lying on top of the tent as I broken it down trying to get me to pet him. He visited everyone while they packed trying to distract them until as we were finishing up he left.
Not eager to leave but concerned about backpacking in the full heat of the sun we set out by 6:30am for the village. The two miles to the village uphill in full sunlight with the packs weighing us down was not an auspicious start to our journey, even though it was cooler this time. We stopped for a short rest on the trail and one last viewing of Havasu Falls, here we were greeted by four sleepy dogs who had chosen the path way as their bed. They took a liking to Alexis became his companions, following him as far as the village. Before we continued on a mule train passed us along the way heading down to pick up their load.
Our last sighting of the Havasupai falls and cascades along the way was a sad and it felt like a final goodbye. As we left this otherworldly place and headed on we knew more adventures were ahead of us but that what we left behind would be sorely missed.
We all struggled through the first two miles of the hike at different paces. Meeting up again at the same village area where we had checked in. A few of our group had stopped to inquire about having mules carry the bags out, but they require 24 hour notice. The general store had frozen Gatorades, other drinks, snacks, and ice cream so we all grabbed a cold treat and continued our trek.
The rest of our journey was a struggle for most of us. Carrying our heavy packs back up out of the canyon. What is easy to forget with the excitement of the journey to Havasu Falls is how the entire path there is either slightly or significantly down hill, and more often than not involved walking on sand or little stones which makes for challenging footing. Leaving as well as having to hike uphill this time had our spirits down a bit. We often split up all moving at our own paces and stopping frequently.
When we started the final ascent, 1.5 miles uphill with switch backs, at this point in midday sun, despite it all we were relieved to be able to see the finish line. We passed frequent travelers and mule trails on this part of the trail.
After our long hike out of the canyon we grabbed snacks from a woman selling chips, candy, drinks, and hot dogs at the top then began the drive to Las Vegas, NV. Vegas was just a stop in our journey to rent a hotel, shower, and eat some real food. Then we would continue on to Zion National Park in Utah.
A Day at Havasu Falls, Fifty Foot Falls, and New Navajo Falls
For our last full day at the Havasupai Reservation we decided not to plan out our day but let it take us where it would. There are many other trails in the area but we wanted more time to enjoy our stay without rushing to try to see everything. In the morning Rachel, Myle, and I set out to explore the two falls we had seen while hiking into the campground.
First we had breakfast with the group at our campsite. The Havasu Creek ran on both sides of our site and we had beautiful views. A small wooden plank lead us across the Creek on one side and on the other we had a picnic table in the water.
Fifty Foot Falls
Then we hiked up, a bit later than was ideal given the sun and heat, toward the first falls we had seen on our hike in, passing Havasu Falls along the way. In many photos you can see the stunning travertine formations all along Havasu Creek.
A major storm a few years ago changed the waterfalls. Two old waterfalls dried and two new waterfalls were made. This includes Fifty Foot Falls and New Navajo Falls (the first you pass on your way down or last you pass on your way out).
New Navajo Falls
After spending a chunk of time photographing and enjoying Fifty Foot Falls we moved on to New Navajo Falls. These falls appear split in two, the middle doesn’t have any water flowing over the travertine formations any longer.
Here I decided to experiment with a quick conceptual photo. We ended up timing our visit to this falls with a group who was watching their friend propose at the same location. My friend Myle was kind enough to model for me and then I also jumped in a took a few with myself as the model.
Havasu Falls and the Sweat Lodge
On the way back towards the campsite we found the guys hanging out by Havasu Falls. We took a quick group photo but were missing Rachel. She had wandered off by herself towards the village and ended up metting back up with us at Havasu Falls. She had been invited to a spiritual ceremony by one of the locals. We all decided to check it out and headed back up towards the Reservation.
Here Roland Manakaja explained a bit about the reservation and the sweat lodge ceremony to us. They invited us each in groups to sit in the sweat lodge for 10-20 minutes; they don’t keep track of time. During this time you are supposed to sweat out all sickness, they sing healing songs in their native tongue. They only sing four refrains, too many is considered asking too much. They also told stories and explained their stories of coming to this location, being invited by god to kill the first buffalo and how to use it well, loosing the animal tongues, and such. They ended by singing more songs of harvest and the sun and moon. Traditionally they would repeat this experience four days in a row, they now usually do it four times in a row the same day. We all took a turn once, thanked them, and headed back to camp for dinner.
A Day Hiking Mooney Falls and Beaver Falls
On our second day at the Havasupai Reservation we planned to do both Mooney Falls and Beaver Falls. We all woke up at a regular hour and ate breakfast. Some had MRE’s of eggs and bacon using a backpacking stove and pot, others had peanut butter and crackers, trail mix, etc. We were quickly joined in the morning by our new dog friend Dusty and another camp dog we decided to call Kumquat. Kumquat got his name because Josh had carried a bag of the fruit in the canyon with him. We all tried it with various reactions, most considering it a strange fruit to chose to carry choice (except I liked it).
Mooney Falls
When hiking down to the campsite from the reservation you pass Havasu Falls, the campground sites then run along Havasu Creek between Havasu and Mooney Falls. To get to Mooney Falls you follow the campground trails to the end and have your first view of the falls from above. The hike is anywhere from a few hundred feet to 3/4 of a mile depending on where you camped. (Note: there are no bathrooms outside the campground)
To get down to the bottom of the falls involves climbs through some old tunnels and down several ladders with chains to help you. It’s a bit of a challenging descent and the later in the day you go people will be traveling both directions and it takes longer to get there.
The view from below looking up the ladders shows you a bit of this descent. The old ladder on the right shows you how this climb would have been even more rickety in the past.
Mooney Falls is the tallest of the 5 major waterfalls on the Havasupai reservation at a 200 ft drop. You could spend an entire day here swimming or hanging in a hammock.
Hiking Havasu Creek to Beaver Falls
We spent a bit of time here but were eager to see Beaver Falls which is about a 3 mile hike from Mooney. The path began up to the left by where we had descended. Marking for the trails don’t exist, they are obvious paths but at times split leading to view points or other areas which can be confusing. The trail to Beaver Falls follows the Havasu Creek much of the way and crosses it 3 times, water shoes proved very useful for these parts if you had good ones.
The trail itself is so beautiful it’s hard not to stop frequently to take photos, enjoy a quiet moment, or a bite to eat.
We stopped for a group photo when we found this small cave in the canyon walls. Here we found a picnic table and began to wonder how picnic tables had been set up along the trail when the descent from Mooney is the only place to begin. We later found out, when speaking to some tribe members, that during flooding some had been moved from their original locations and others taken down by boat.
Here I also paused to take photos of the cascades which are so numerous along the trail. As the water in Havasu Creek flows it deposits minerals with create the travertine rock formations that are so common here, these formations become visible as floods change the stream bed.
From here we crossed the creek again, but this time by pieces of wood and careful stepping instead of wading through.
At one point you enter a sea of green on the canyon floor, you can’t even see the path from above just little heads of people on the trail.
Sometimes you are traveling directly next to the creek, sometimes above the creek, and yet other times crossing over it on wooden planks or wading through. Experiencing the changing environment from different altitudes was awe inspiring. Information about Havasu online will often feature the waterfalls but the journey between these two falls is like nothing else.
Beaver Falls
When we finally reached Beaver Falls, after climbing up rocks and all kinds of ladders we had to climb down a few more to reach the lowest tier of this cascading waterfall. You can swim in all the tiers and find other cascades and tree and plant life around it as well.
While at Beaver Falls we met a ranger from the reservation who checked group bracelets and made sure everyone left the area by 4:30, because of the 3 miles hike back to Mooney Falls where you then have to climb the ladders they want you back with plenty of time before sunset. He shared one story of an injured self proclaimed avid hiker with us:
There is a trail along the canyon wall called the Mesa trail, to get to this trail or get off this trail at Beaver Falls there is a rope to help you down. This woman, either wishing to jump in the water or tired from her hike had decided to let go of the rope. She fell and badly broke her leg. Due to poor weather the helicopter couldn’t get there and she was forced to wait by the falls with a ranger and one friend until the next day to be airlifted out. Each time they have to use the helicopter to bring someone to the hospital it costs the reservation a minimum of $10,000.
While at Beaver Falls the wile squirrels got into our bags to steal trail mix.
Heading Back to Camp
Heading back to Mooney Falls on the trail we eventually realize we must have missed a creek crossing (possibly the one I mentioned before). This doesn’t turn out to be a problem we are just following a different way back. We cross at different points in the Creek and see different parts of it which is fun. A few parts of this trail were a little more over grown but it was easy to follow. We ended up in what we came to believe was Ghost Canyon right before returning to Mooney.
The trail up from here was climbing up some sand stone which is a bit challenging. If my fitbit was correct though this way back was a bit shorter.
We didn’t stop for long once we reached Mooney Falls but quickly ascended the ladders and cave tunnels. Back at the campsite we all began to get comfortable when someone noticed a snake. Not sure what kind it was we made sure it exited our area before making dinner. Later we found out it was a common Kingsnake that will actually eat rattlesnakes.
Backpacking into Havasupai Reservation
May 14th the real trek began, the one we had been planning so long for. I could write an entire post about our planning and preparation, and find many others online so for now I’ll just start at the beginning of our day.
We rose early, cold in our cars having gotten maybe two hours of sleep. Havasupai hilltop is a 3-3:30 hour drive from the Grand Canyon South Rim entrance and we didn’t leave until after dinner the night before. We quickly began dressing for the day and more slowly repacking our bags so they had 3 liters of water and everything else we needed.
As we got ourselves together the sun began to come up over the canyon walls, a few dogs trotted over to visit us, and a lone horse passed us by. We made a quick stop at the restrooms at hilltop, a fellow backpacker took a group photo of us with our packs on, and then we began the 10 mile journey to the Havasu Falls campground.
Left to Right standing: Myle, Rachel, Margaret (me!), Alexis (my fiance), Kevin, EJ, Logan.
Kneeling: Josh
I’ll say this now, no matter how prepared you are and how much you practice, unless you are experienced at back packing your bag will likely be heavier than it should be! All our packs were definitely heavier than they should have been, Josh’s may have even been 70lbs! He decided to carry fresh produce we all found out later (I would recommend dehydrated produce only).
It is 7.5-8 miles until you hit the beginning of the Native American Reservation, Havasupai, itself. Then another 2-2.5 miles to the actual campground and whatever amount it takes you to find your campsite. [My fitbit listed 15.75 miles for the day, 38,200 steps total. 10 miles and 24,400 steps being the journey with our packs on]
The beginning of the trail is downhill, 1.5 miles of switch backs to get to the canyon floor. At this point in the journey everyone is together, spirits high, still a bit cold but beginning to shed layers, and excited to reach our destination.
In one of the photos if you look closely on the canyon ridge on the right you can see a little rectangular shape that is at top of the hilltop parking area.
While still on the switch backs, Josh finds the lower half skeleton jaw from a large animal in the remains of an old foundation and poses with it.
Once off the switch backs, at this point mostly on flat land, we see the breath of the Canyon. Being surrounded by red rocks, short green plants, and cactus is a unique experience when my daily life usually consists of large green trees that tower over me and grey rock.
The occasional desert flower, from weeds, wild flowers, and cactus caught my eye as a bit of color in a vast sea of sandy reds and desert greens.
If you research Havasu Falls online you will find many beautiful photos of the 5 major waterfalls but not as many about the journey. I wanted to share more images of the unique landscape that is a huge part of the experience of backpacking the trail to the final destination.
I can’t quite pinpoint in photos where our group split up a bit, but around this point we finished shedding our layers as it was warm out and applying sunscreen. It was our first stop of many along the way, taken so early out of necessity for sunscreen more than rest. Sometime after this the group split up into those walking more quickly and those more leisurely. EJ and I took the lead, choosing to deal with the distance and weight on our backs with speed walking. Each time we stopped we’d wait for the entire group to catch up and then continue.
Along the way we also ran into many other travelers. Backpackers coming into and leaving the canyon, we even ran into two stragglers from one group who were tailing behind because one of them women was hiking with a broken toe! There were also many horse and mule trains carrying belongings to and from the hilltop. We had decided not to use these trains after reading some less favorable reviews about their care and to give ourselves the full backpacking experience. (If you do go on this trip and wish to use the mules you do need a reservation in advance!)
As you might see in some of these photos, the trail is often made up of walking on sand, beds of little rocks, and sand stone. It makes for difficult footing causing the backpacking trek to be even more challenging.
Despite what you may assume there is actually a decent amount of shade in the canyon but I highly recommend starting this hike early to avoid the heat of midday, especially later in the summer!
Once you start to see signs for the village you feel a bit of relief knowing you are close. A bit after the first sign you also see the unbelievably clear blue water Havasupai is famous for. Havasupai actually translates roughly to “The people of the blue-green waters.”
Continuing on through this strangely forested area after the start canyon you reach the village and see the helicopter running trips from the village to the hilltop (the helicopter is sometimes available for rides out of the canyon). You also reach the first opportunity to purchase food or some supplies from the village store. Frozen Gatorades were the most popular.
Walking through the village to the office to check in, we encountered many horses and dogs. We quickly checked in giving our parties name, all receiving bracelets listing how large our group was and the dates of our reservation. In this area there is another small general store and place to purchase food. From here we had read we had two miles left in our journey but the trail was mostly sand for that time. Expecting this challenge we took a short break before heading out again.
Our hiking groups broke up again into those eager to get a good campsite and those walking at a more leisurely pace. This part of the trail was the most challenging walking in sand that was not compact with the heat of the sun beating down on us.
Catching sight of the crystal clear blue water again, falling in tiers, then turning around to view the first two waterfalls stopped us in our tracks for a moment (These falls are New Navajo Falls and Fifty Foot Falls).
You know you are genuinely minutes from the campground when you get your first awe inspiring view of Havasu Falls from above.
We paused to soak it in and realize we had made it. But then we continued on eager to get the packs off our backs. Upon entering the campground (which is first come first serve) we ran into other campers who told us to keep going better campsites were further in.
We did drop our things at the first site we found, having a camp dog join us. We quickly named him Dusty and he hung out with me and our things while part of the group wandered to find a better campsite.
After setting up the campsite and finding the rest of our group we eventually headed back over to Havasu Falls. Here we took some photos, relaxed, eventually got in the water (cold since it was May). Returning to our campsite once we were hungry and trying our MRE’s and new equipment for the first time.
A quick winter hike at Lincoln Woods, NH
In mid January, Rachel, Alexis, and I decided to go check out Ice Castles in Lincoln New Hampshire, since we were making the drive up we decided to do a small hike too. We walked part of Lincoln Woods Trail along the East Branch Pemigewasset River. We parked in the Lincoln Woods Trailhead and headed over the bridge.
10/25: Shenandoah National Park and Blue Ridge Parkway
Continuing our trip in Shenandoah National Park Alexis and I got up and packed up our campsite at Loft Mountain Campground and headed out to hike to Doyles River Falls. We didn't do the full loop here just there and back, I believe it was bout 3-3.5 miles round trip.
The trail on the way to the waterfalls is almost all downhill which means on the way back it is almost all up hill. It is a pretty trail, especially in the fall when we went. At one point on the trail there is a stone wall with water coming through. There is also a small bridge near where you meet Browns Gap Fire Road. (see the map here)
Coming from this direction (having parked in the closest lot to Loft Mountain Campground) we reached the smaller of the two Doyles River Falls first which is seen above and below. This is a serene and small falls and of course I climbed right across rocks and stepped in the water to take the photo from different angles for my favorite.
The second falls is two steps to it. I had a lot of fun photographing the top pieces alone and playing with
After our hike we finished the last piece of Skyline Drive in Shenandoah National Park and continued on to check out some of Blue Ridge Parkway and the over looks there.
