Backpacking out of Havasupai
Saying goodbye is never easy. We found the experience no different when leaving the campground at Havasupai. We rose early to pack our things and begin backpacking out of the canyon before temperatures rose. I found Kumkuat (the honorary name we had given one of the dogs who live here) sleeping outside our tent where he had apparently been all night. Not enjoying our packing he kept trying to distract me lying on top of the tent as I broken it down trying to get me to pet him. He visited everyone while they packed trying to distract them until as we were finishing up he left.
Not eager to leave but concerned about backpacking in the full heat of the sun we set out by 6:30am for the village. The two miles to the village uphill in full sunlight with the packs weighing us down was not an auspicious start to our journey, even though it was cooler this time. We stopped for a short rest on the trail and one last viewing of Havasu Falls, here we were greeted by four sleepy dogs who had chosen the path way as their bed. They took a liking to Alexis became his companions, following him as far as the village. Before we continued on a mule train passed us along the way heading down to pick up their load.
Our last sighting of the Havasupai falls and cascades along the way was a sad and it felt like a final goodbye. As we left this otherworldly place and headed on we knew more adventures were ahead of us but that what we left behind would be sorely missed.
We all struggled through the first two miles of the hike at different paces. Meeting up again at the same village area where we had checked in. A few of our group had stopped to inquire about having mules carry the bags out, but they require 24 hour notice. The general store had frozen Gatorades, other drinks, snacks, and ice cream so we all grabbed a cold treat and continued our trek.
The rest of our journey was a struggle for most of us. Carrying our heavy packs back up out of the canyon. What is easy to forget with the excitement of the journey to Havasu Falls is how the entire path there is either slightly or significantly down hill, and more often than not involved walking on sand or little stones which makes for challenging footing. Leaving as well as having to hike uphill this time had our spirits down a bit. We often split up all moving at our own paces and stopping frequently.
When we started the final ascent, 1.5 miles uphill with switch backs, at this point in midday sun, despite it all we were relieved to be able to see the finish line. We passed frequent travelers and mule trails on this part of the trail.
After our long hike out of the canyon we grabbed snacks from a woman selling chips, candy, drinks, and hot dogs at the top then began the drive to Las Vegas, NV. Vegas was just a stop in our journey to rent a hotel, shower, and eat some real food. Then we would continue on to Zion National Park in Utah.
Backpacking into Havasupai Reservation
May 14th the real trek began, the one we had been planning so long for. I could write an entire post about our planning and preparation, and find many others online so for now I’ll just start at the beginning of our day.
We rose early, cold in our cars having gotten maybe two hours of sleep. Havasupai hilltop is a 3-3:30 hour drive from the Grand Canyon South Rim entrance and we didn’t leave until after dinner the night before. We quickly began dressing for the day and more slowly repacking our bags so they had 3 liters of water and everything else we needed.
As we got ourselves together the sun began to come up over the canyon walls, a few dogs trotted over to visit us, and a lone horse passed us by. We made a quick stop at the restrooms at hilltop, a fellow backpacker took a group photo of us with our packs on, and then we began the 10 mile journey to the Havasu Falls campground.
Left to Right standing: Myle, Rachel, Margaret (me!), Alexis (my fiance), Kevin, EJ, Logan.
Kneeling: Josh
I’ll say this now, no matter how prepared you are and how much you practice, unless you are experienced at back packing your bag will likely be heavier than it should be! All our packs were definitely heavier than they should have been, Josh’s may have even been 70lbs! He decided to carry fresh produce we all found out later (I would recommend dehydrated produce only).
It is 7.5-8 miles until you hit the beginning of the Native American Reservation, Havasupai, itself. Then another 2-2.5 miles to the actual campground and whatever amount it takes you to find your campsite. [My fitbit listed 15.75 miles for the day, 38,200 steps total. 10 miles and 24,400 steps being the journey with our packs on]
The beginning of the trail is downhill, 1.5 miles of switch backs to get to the canyon floor. At this point in the journey everyone is together, spirits high, still a bit cold but beginning to shed layers, and excited to reach our destination.
In one of the photos if you look closely on the canyon ridge on the right you can see a little rectangular shape that is at top of the hilltop parking area.
While still on the switch backs, Josh finds the lower half skeleton jaw from a large animal in the remains of an old foundation and poses with it.
Once off the switch backs, at this point mostly on flat land, we see the breath of the Canyon. Being surrounded by red rocks, short green plants, and cactus is a unique experience when my daily life usually consists of large green trees that tower over me and grey rock.
The occasional desert flower, from weeds, wild flowers, and cactus caught my eye as a bit of color in a vast sea of sandy reds and desert greens.
If you research Havasu Falls online you will find many beautiful photos of the 5 major waterfalls but not as many about the journey. I wanted to share more images of the unique landscape that is a huge part of the experience of backpacking the trail to the final destination.
I can’t quite pinpoint in photos where our group split up a bit, but around this point we finished shedding our layers as it was warm out and applying sunscreen. It was our first stop of many along the way, taken so early out of necessity for sunscreen more than rest. Sometime after this the group split up into those walking more quickly and those more leisurely. EJ and I took the lead, choosing to deal with the distance and weight on our backs with speed walking. Each time we stopped we’d wait for the entire group to catch up and then continue.
Along the way we also ran into many other travelers. Backpackers coming into and leaving the canyon, we even ran into two stragglers from one group who were tailing behind because one of them women was hiking with a broken toe! There were also many horse and mule trains carrying belongings to and from the hilltop. We had decided not to use these trains after reading some less favorable reviews about their care and to give ourselves the full backpacking experience. (If you do go on this trip and wish to use the mules you do need a reservation in advance!)
As you might see in some of these photos, the trail is often made up of walking on sand, beds of little rocks, and sand stone. It makes for difficult footing causing the backpacking trek to be even more challenging.
Despite what you may assume there is actually a decent amount of shade in the canyon but I highly recommend starting this hike early to avoid the heat of midday, especially later in the summer!
Once you start to see signs for the village you feel a bit of relief knowing you are close. A bit after the first sign you also see the unbelievably clear blue water Havasupai is famous for. Havasupai actually translates roughly to “The people of the blue-green waters.”
Continuing on through this strangely forested area after the start canyon you reach the village and see the helicopter running trips from the village to the hilltop (the helicopter is sometimes available for rides out of the canyon). You also reach the first opportunity to purchase food or some supplies from the village store. Frozen Gatorades were the most popular.
Walking through the village to the office to check in, we encountered many horses and dogs. We quickly checked in giving our parties name, all receiving bracelets listing how large our group was and the dates of our reservation. In this area there is another small general store and place to purchase food. From here we had read we had two miles left in our journey but the trail was mostly sand for that time. Expecting this challenge we took a short break before heading out again.
Our hiking groups broke up again into those eager to get a good campsite and those walking at a more leisurely pace. This part of the trail was the most challenging walking in sand that was not compact with the heat of the sun beating down on us.
Catching sight of the crystal clear blue water again, falling in tiers, then turning around to view the first two waterfalls stopped us in our tracks for a moment (These falls are New Navajo Falls and Fifty Foot Falls).
You know you are genuinely minutes from the campground when you get your first awe inspiring view of Havasu Falls from above.
We paused to soak it in and realize we had made it. But then we continued on eager to get the packs off our backs. Upon entering the campground (which is first come first serve) we ran into other campers who told us to keep going better campsites were further in.
We did drop our things at the first site we found, having a camp dog join us. We quickly named him Dusty and he hung out with me and our things while part of the group wandered to find a better campsite.
After setting up the campsite and finding the rest of our group we eventually headed back over to Havasu Falls. Here we took some photos, relaxed, eventually got in the water (cold since it was May). Returning to our campsite once we were hungry and trying our MRE’s and new equipment for the first time.
Winter in Middlesex Fells
A quick winter hike in Middlesex Fells just outside of Boston, MA. This hike was on Crystal Springs Trail on the Stoneham / Melrose side of Middlesex Fells. [trail map] This short local hike helped us enjoy some time outdoors with our dog.
10/16: Mount Cardigan
It's a bit late but here's some lovely fall color in the White Mountains in October.
Shooting photos from a moving vehicle is a silly idea but I thought there were a little fun.
Alexis, Brian, and I headed up to Mt Cardigan October 16th with Behr to do a quick hike a catch a bit of fall color. We decided to do Mount Cardigan which is a 3,156 ft mountain with a popular hike that is 3.1 miles round trip. We decided this short hike was ideal since we were driving up from Boston a bit later in the morning.
Once we arrived at the small parking lot and found the start of the trail we were immediately greeted by some beautiful yellow, orange, and red fall color.
The above photo of fall color peaking through well shaded forest is one of my favorites from the trip. It has that light at the end of the tunnel feel without actually feeling like the clique.
Eventually you reach a point where you can continue up the shortest way or take a slightly longer way up. During this hike it was still fairly early in the turning of color in New England but it was my last opportunity to hike and see the leaving turning in New England before Alexis and I went on vacation (more photos of that coming later).
This hike had lots of evergreens along the way which really made the trees that had changed color stand out.
Behr modeled for us as usual!
As we reached the summit we could see the fall color peaking through all round us. (And Behr's head peaking through that tree, eager to catch up to me)
Some fall color and some windmills off in the fog.
8/2: Acadia National Park
At the beginning of the month I planned a last minute trip to Acadia National Park in Maine and the White Mountains. My boyfriend Alexis, my friend Rachel, and I decided to spend one day in Acadia and a few days in the White Mountains. We planned to drive up to Acadia early Tuesday morning and explore Ocean Path on the coast and hopefully see Thunder Hole at high tide. Then we would head down to our campsite in the White Mountains.
Things don't always work out as planned of course and after the 4 hour drive up to Acadia we decided to spend the first night there and head to our campsite in the White Mountains afterwards.
By the time we got to Acadia it was 2-3pm and it took us some time to find the visitors center and get a pass. Afterwards we were hungry so we stopped in Bar Harbor to grab some food on our way to Ocean Path.
There are several parking lots along Ocean Path but we parked at the very beginning by Sand Beach. We had Behr with us and dogs aren't allowed on the beach so we began immediately on the trail behind the restrooms. The trail follows the coast and often runs along the road with many little paths running off it that allow you to see the views along the coast. We took many of these side paths to see the scenery and take photos. (photos of Rachel and I and Alexis, Behr, and I below. Rachel and Alexis were my human tripods for these)
By the time we made it to Thunder Hole it was low tide (we made it between 4-5pm and high tide was at 11am). Below is a photo of how it looked at low tide, at high tide the water roars far past that area and splashes anyone along the walk.
Behr and Alexis were a treat to take photos of along the way. Behr is so goofy with his tongue always hanging out he takes the funniest photos and he was just so happy to be there you can feel it.
Eventually along the path we entered an area in the woods. At this time the sun was getting lower in the sky and the light filtering through the trees created this radiant supernatural glow that felt very fairy tale. It seemed like the perfect opportunity for a conceptual photo so I attempted to take a photo with myself as the model. However, I was unable to take my shoes off because of animal holes in the ground so I like the one without me better.
In that same area of the woods this red squirrel tried to make friends with us. Behr kept accidentally scaring him off but he kept coming back.
We walked the full 2 miles (plus all our side stops) to Otter Point before we turned around.
On the way back we stopped at Thunder Hole again and walked out on the rocks in the area to get a little closer for photos of the visiting seal and to rest a minute.
The full loop is about 4 miles without getting off the path, with all the side trails we're guessing it was more like 4.5-5 miles.
After we got back to the car we drove up to the top of Cadillac Mountain to see the sunset.
The Animals Settle In
Moving the animals twice within a month of each other was quite confusing for them, but they've settled into our new home and are loving it.
Behr is happy to have a yard to run around in and a bigger house to explore. He's also much closer to a few trails and state parks that allow dogs. He's a happy dog so it doesn't take much to please him but I'd like to think it was more than that.
Behr was unhappy with us for a while though, he only has one bed and in Allston we moved it from room to room for him, but at our new house we left it in the bedroom. Sometimes he'd want his bed so bad he'd go upstairs without us. For a dog who follows anyone who's moving around that is saying something. After he completed a difficult and long hike this past weekend (more posts on this after I finish editing the photos!) we thought he deserved a new bed for down stairs and he can't get enough of it.
Simba was the most nervous at first. He even slept under the bed instead of on it for almost a month. Now he happily runs around the house and spends time sitting on the chairs and floors in every room and takes up all our foot space on the bed again.
Grizzy was an easy transition and a pretty good natured guy. When we take him out and let him run around in a still empty living room though he gets mad at the curious dog and cat who keep approaching him. He's gotten to play outside and go on walks with us since it's summer.
Gizmo is still adjusting, she's active at all different times of day much earlier than usual. We have lots of sun in the new house and are still trying to find the best place so she can sleep through the day.
We also found a couple outdoor cats visiting our backyard.
Fourth of July
Soooo I keep saying I've been busy moving and now here are some photos of our first home!
We are so excited to be in our very own home and all the animals are slowly settling in. We are still working on fixing things and getting furniture, as can be expected, but we decided to have a few friends over for a cookout on the Fourth of July.
I decided I wanted to make some festive cupcakes from scratch in my new kitchen. I used the vanilla cake recipe from Better Homes and Gardens Everyone can Bake cookbook as well as the cream cheese frosting recipe.
I used blue and red food dye to dye the cupcake dough and frosting red white and blue.
Then I attempted to use tips to frost them, a first for me and very messy.
Then we had a few friends over for a BBQ.
Behr didn't want to stay in the group photo...
He'd rather run around and be a goof ball...
And at the end of the night we all ate cupcakes.
50 Faces: Alexis Lemus
I want to note that the photos in this 50 face project will not all follow the same format, I am not limiting myself to simple professional portraits, conceptual portraits, or any specific category of portraiture. They may all be different depending on time restrictions, location, the model, etc. The photo of Brys was taken quickly and meant to be a simple portrait. These images were taken over more time and some were a bit conceptual in that they used the environment and the harsh light of midday sun in a very purposeful way.
I should also note since these photos are of my boyfriend and he's easy to bug to model likely will not be the only photos I take of him for this project.
While hiking in Blue Hills this past Saturday (6/18) my boyfriend, Alexis Lemus, was kind enough to model for me and allow me to work on a few ideas I'd been wanting to try. Once Behr had finished swimming in the pond and we began our hike, I started looking for interesting areas to use as our location for photos. At first the paths were well traveled and any spot we might like would be often interrupted. After walking a bit further we found some odd rocks that had a dip in them you could imagine sitting it. I worked with alexis and this rock for some more simple portraits.
If you took a photography class you were probably told midday sun it terrible lighting for shooting especially for portraits. If you never took a class you might also have noticed when you take selfies on your phone that there is really harsh lighting on your face, lots of deep shadows, and funny shapes. In class you would have also been taught that if you had to shoot in midday sun you should look for shade or use diffusors to avoid such harsh lighting. All of this is very true but I love playing with harsh light and the strong contrast and highlights you can get from midday sun. While doing so I do my best to make sure that light doesn't touch my models face and adds to the photo instead of working against me. It is still not ideal lighting but you can get some really interesting highlights and shapes you just have to be careful it isn't distracting from your concept.
After I used the odd shape of the rock Alexis climbed on top of them just for fun but when he was up there I notice the light raked across his abdomen and worked to keep that light off his face while I shoot some more.
This is an example of where the location and lighting just didn't work out as well in camera as it looked in concept. We kept walking for a bit after the first photos and I saw this broken tree with lots of branches coming out of it. I began to imagine how I might use the lines of the tree and Alexis's body to make an interesting composition. I worked to have his body create a continuous line in a bit of an odd shape while still looking natural. While I took this shot I thought it would be the most interesting one conceptually and to edit. However, once I began to edit I realized the lighting here had been less than ideal, it didn't do anything for him, or set the tone of the image. I may try to continue editing this image but I believe the concept ended up being more interesting than the final image.
I have to say this is my favorite image! It also was a struggle to edit, I think I am happy with this edit but I may play some more and I may post another post with all my attempts. I also saw this as a huge opportunity to work on my black and white photos as I've mentioned before I am particularly picky about black and white and you won't often find it in my work.
For this image we found another fallen tree with branches in odd shapes. I asked Alexis to get into a bit of an uncomfortable position to make interesting shapes between his body and the fallen branches. I loved the angles of the tree and his body made as well as the shapes of leaves on his chest and abdomen the harsh lighting made. The bright midday sun light his body through the trees but also the background where it filtered through the trees. This created a strong push and pull between background and foreground which I wasn't looking for in this particular image. I worked hard to keep the tones of grey I loved in the foreground but flatten the background so it was less distracting. How successful you think I was probably varies based on the styles you like but I do love this image.
And lastly I found more fallen branches and tried a few simpler shots but we were short on time and starting to find ticks on us so here's just one quick shot!
6/18: Blue Hills
I must apologize again for the lack of posts but as I said before I am moving at the end of this month so it's been a bit of a whirlwind! From this trip I will have two blog posts for you, this post is the fun hiking photos while the other is some planned shots for my 50 faces project & working to take photos in black and white as I've mentioned in previous posts.
Behr and Alexis were reunited for the weekend, after 2 weeks apart (since we are in between places Behr isn't with us for the month we only see him on some weekends), which made Behr was a very happy puppy! Saturday Alexis, Behr, and I set out for Blue Hills in Milton to let Behr get wet in the water and do a bit of hiking. First we had to drive around to find some available parking and we got lucky and found a spot near Houghton Pond. We set off first towards the pond to let Behr do a little swimming.
Behr likes to swim for the most part but prefers when he can touch the ground, when he can't touch the ground he looks like he's struggling a bit, and one he is back on ground he seems to frustratingly gurgle up water he got in his mouth, and he is quick to shake himself dry throwing water on the rest of us.
That last photo is so dramatic and the others so silly I might just have to print all three as a series for a wall in our new home!
Once Behr seemed sick of the water and even Alexis couldn't coax him back in we set off for the woods and did a leisurely loop with lots of stops to take photos with Alexis modeling for me... coming in the next blog post.
5/15 Gooch Caves
I have some exciting news, that is also why I haven't posted in so long, last week we found out we will be moving into a new home at the end of June and have to start packing to move our of our apartment by the end of May! While we are very excited we have a lot to do very quickly so I may be short on posts for a while.
That said, this past Sunday Amanda, Wruggles, and I took a short walk at to the Gooch Cavesas Amanda called it in Hammond Pond Reservation, near Boston College and Newton Centre. We parked by the theatre at Hammond Pond and headed into the woods. We walked a bit in this part of the woods, passing climbers and other people walking their dogs, and lots of rock, trees, and swamp or marsh areas.
Eventually we got to the road, Hammond Pond Parkway and crossed before the train tracks. Once we crossed the street we quickly found the Gooch Caves, a bunch of rocks that had fallen and broken in ways that formed little caves. Here we explored the different caves. We found trees growing on top of the rocks and one had a branch growing out from the bottom of it that ended in rock. We also ran into a dead rabbit before continuing our walk.
As we continued to walk we decided to turn in that way that seemed to be circle so we wouldn't get lost. We ran into a well laid path and found it lead to another parking lot, wishing to continue our walk we headed back into the woods.
We immediately ran into more large rock formations which we followed Wruggles up. On top we found more than we expected, it was not rock alone but it's own little environment up there with lots of small trees, grass, and moss. While on top of the rocks the tops of trees were much closer but while one side of the rock seemed well above the ground the other side met it easily. If we had come from the other direction we might not have thought it was a significant rock formation.
After we climbed down we noticed we were close to the road again but first we stumbled upon a fallen tree and saw quite literally how things return to the earth and bring new life. There was a baby tree growing right out of the fallen tree and strangely enough it was covered in wreath leaves around the bottom. Moss had also made its home all along the length of the fallen tree and it looked a bit like a path as your eye followed it along the trunk.
After spending some time here we continued back across the street again and back to the car.
Below you can see a map, taken from google, that estimates the path we took.
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